Tag Archives: Rob Levitt

Fall — it’s for harvesting

There’s a quick flick of the wrist — a natural rhythmic motion one falls into when one is comfortable with a knife. The motion allows you to flick unnecessary bits out of the way so you can keep on task. So you can maintain the forward motion of cooking.

I was looking out the back window, the butcher block and the men, silhouetted in the doorway of the garage, when I saw Rob’s practiced flick. “There goes the head,” I said to Allie, who was with me in the comfort of the kitchen while the menfolk did their work outside.

Allie and I, and I guess the baby who was due last week so technically should be here, were cleaning up after an impromptu dinner I threw together once I realized everyone was coming over at 7:30 on a Friday — a time generally accepted as “dinner” if you are a Midwesterner.

Not ironically, I served chicken.

I served it in a dish I refer to as “Last Minute Chicken” because it is something I can cook without thinking and serve looking like I had been. It’s from Casa Moro. They call it “Chicken Fatee with Rice, Crispbread and Yoghurt.”

The awesome part of Last Minute Chicken is that you can cook the components ahead a bit and then just dump it all together at the last minute.  Clove-scented roasted chicken, cinnamon and garlicky tomato sauce, cinnamon-scented rice with sauteed onion and chickpeas, sauteed eggplant, a tossing in of crispbread in the bottom of the bowl, and drizzle of some garlicky yogurt on top. Oh, and a topping of roasted nuts. They specify pine nuts, I tend to use what I have, which is mostly Marcona almonds.

Unless it is bitterly cold, if I am going to serve a “one-pot” meal, I tend to prefer a dish with distinction in its parts. It offers textural variation that can make it feel like a complete meal itself, rather than just a bowl of something to eat because it is dinnertime.

That said, I forgot to pour the chicken juices over the crispbread so, unfortunately, it hadn’t soak up the juices when we all had started eating it.  Note to all: this is an important step! Miss it and your guests could, in fact, start ribbing you for putting bagel chips in your dish. It’s embarrassing and, without the bonding opportunities of the Fall harvest wrapped into the evening, could in fact leave a scar.

Thankfully, Rob was about to pull a drippy mass of unformed egg goo out of the butt-end of Pot Pie. Despite his meaty life, the experience seemed enough to distract his brain from what he demanded were bagel chips.  I live in a Middle Eastern neighborhood, for the love of all things holy, I can get my hands on various crackery breads at the corner store.

I guess I am scarred.

But at least I was not also scarred by the evening’s main activity, Pot Pie.

Indeed, it was a much different affair to have a butcher on-hand to navigate the way through the chicken. When I think back to that first night Friend X and I had together, all I see flashbacks I would very much like to forget. It was awkward and fumbling and, in fact, seemed very much more like teen sex than two consenting adults, carrying out a one of nature’s most natural acts.

When I think back on last night, the whole is something I’ll want to remember.

Mostly because the evening was really a glimpse into the community that can develop when food is honest.

Food is nourishment. Our very connection to the world around us — the earth and its flora and fauna — it is the nourishment of soul, the nourishment of friendship, the nourishment of body and the nourishment of humanity. In fact, when I think of the spiritual link that ties us all together — what you might think of as a higher power or a God — I think of the cycle of food and how it can enrich my days.

To me, it is that reverent.

It is why I choose to buy food grown by people I know — they become my congregation with whom I share values and beliefs. And why I choose to start with the raw ingredients of life when I cook — it is how I seek to understand the mysteries of my faith.

And it is why I appreciate the shared experience of a Fall Harvest, because my compatriots and I are practicing a ritual that connects us to one another in the most honest, and nourishing, of ways.

Pot Pie was one of the original chickens to come to my homestead. There were three and of them now there are none. I am sad, although I never much liked her and she seemed never to like me. She is being donated to a dinner this week, I think for a stew.

There are four chickens left: En Croute, who is my favorite because she is charming and loving; Mrs. Leghorn, who is standoffish at best; and Dumpling II, 1 and 2, who seem at once feisty and shy because I can’t ever tell them apart so their divergent personalities simply merge.

They will be joined by three chicks being picked up tomorrow.  And hopefully, soon, by rabbits if we ever get around to building the hutch. No one so much as brought up bees this year. I don’t know why though I imagine because the work of the vegetables can often seem like quite enough, thank you very much.

I wish this life, this opportunity to connect with the natural world so intimately, for everyone. I am sad when I realize so few even know what they are missing.

Wherein my Turnip Kraut Channels Madonna

I struggle with kraut of all kind. It goes moldy, it’s too salty, I forget to eat it for two years and it metamorphosizes into a glump, I accidently give all of it away and end up with none on the very day I am making choucroute.

So it is not surprising that I am currently krautless.

Which is why I ordered 15 pounds of the World’s Most Expensive Purple Top Turnips* from Spence Farm. Because I am determined to make enough kraut to last through the rest of my pig, Bessie. And I have a lot of pig left.

I discovered that my most often too salty cabbage kraut has a delightful home in the runzas of my friends A&TVH, so when I make a kraut for myself, I turn to turnips.

Turnip Kraut is pretty easy: top and tail, peel, shred in whatever shredder device you have, weigh, add 1/2 tablespoon of salt per pound and leave overnight.  Next day, pack into crock and push down.  The turnips should be covered by about 2 inches of briney water.  If not, add salty water to the tune of 1.5 teaspoons of salt per cup of water.  I also add some whey, about 1/4 cup, to kick off the lactic fermentation. Then cover mine with a double layer of muslin and weigh with a board and a large mason jar filled with water.

After about two weeks, it has krauted.  Which for me is just the start because I process my kraut in jars.

And I flavor it.

With all kinds of flavors.

In individual jars.

I am pretty sure this is against all kraut rules, but I really hate eating the same thing over and over again.**  But I am not a big processed food gal and I can’t make food from scratch every day and keep my sanity. So, I tend to make a base of something and then make variations I can pop on a pantry shelf for later.

So, my turnip kraut is going to get dressed up in all manner of guises when it goes into the canning jar. This year, I am making:

Spicy Kimchee-Inspired But Spanish Really Turnip Kraut
I make this with pimentón — and yes, it makes me feel so clever. Even if it makes you think I am culinarily insane. Basically I make a fire-y paste with the pimentón, homemade garlic powder and the kraut liquid, dump it into the jar with the fermented kraut and process it.  Totally not traditional, I know. You are supposed to add the heat as part of the fermenting! Kimchee is made with Napa cabbage! I know, I know. So, don’t get your underwear in a bunch and then don’t even think of then turning around and asking me for a recipe after you try it after bashing it.

This stuff, this is good for hangovers served along side some scrambled eggs. But you can’t have a hangover for at least a month or so because the flavors need to blend.  So, be careful there, my friend.

Boatloads of Fresh Bay Turnip Kraut
I happen to have a bunch of Bay that has been hanging around for a while and three trees for the garden on the way so I don’t need to dry it.  I love fresh Bay. I use too much of it in everything I can.  This can be an awesome way to complement a mild hot dog, if you make your own hot dogs or buy them from a reliable source.  If you don’t let me know where to send the flowers.

Caraway Turnip Kraut
You can mess with the cabbage-y part, sure, but don’t mess with the flavors of choucroute, Yo.  I put a bunch in the bottom of the jar before filling up with the kraut.  Seal and leave until choucroute time to marry the flavors.

Ode To Rob Levitt Fennel, Coriander and Chili Flake Turnip Kraut
As I continue to make the meaty things Rob tells me to make, it will be handy to have a complementing kraut on the shelf.  Rob is obsessed with the fennel-coriander-chili flake combo.  If this turns out, I’ll bring him some just to say thanks for being an awesome dude.

Ramp-y Turnip Kraut
Duh, it’s spring. Ramps. For this, I will actually be making a smallish batch of krauted ramps to add to the turnips at canning.  To make a smallish batch of basically any kind of kraut, pile vegetables into a quart canning jar, add 2 tablespoons each of whey and salt and fill with filtered water to the top (for all you “tap water is fine” folk, know that the chlorine messes with the fermentation).  Again, I cover with a cloth to keep everything submerged and then, using a used lid, screw on the cap and leave on the counter for a few days before moving to a cooler place to ferment.

Turnip Kraut is a spring thing, because the turnips are sweeter in Spring than in the Fall.  So, make some now or just come over in the fall and eat mine.


*The world would be a better place if every American who could afford it would find a farmer who is honestly committed to farming sustainably and support them in their efforts to make a living. I have a Make Your Own CSA with Spence Farm and often, the food  I get from this farmer is eye-poppingly expensive. To me, it isn’t about the cost of the food. It is about helping a family farm make a living and honoring myself with honest food grown with good intention.  You could do this too, if you stopped thinking about groceries as household line item and started thinking about it as a vehicle to living an honorable life.

**I am pretty sure this is why, not matter how much I try, I don’t eat leftovers. Which is awesome for chickens because they seem to relish them as though they are gifts from the Gods and so my leftovers no longer languish in the fridge, they get converted to yummy, colorful eggs.

The making of a butcherress

Of late, I’ve been obsessively watching every episode of every season of Hugh Fearnley-Whittenstall’s River Cottage — Escape to, Return, Forever, Beyond, Summer, Fall, I am watching them all. All the while. I am simultaneously faux-ordering all his books on Amazon.  (I can only faux order as I am brokeasaurus and the gal who keeps my books in order keeps me on a tight leash.)

Of course, despite now growing food in a winter hoop house in my backyard and also keeping backyard chickens (bees some year soon, swear!), there’s a reality to the fact that I live on a (only) slightly oversized Chicago city lot and the likelihood, at my age, that I will be able to be a proper downshifter (HFW has the most charming terms for things), is not likely.

But a girl can dream.

And I think I was dreaming this morning when I woke with the idea that since Rob Levitt is soon opening a sustainable, whole animal butcher shop, I could likely convince him to teach me how to butcher and use a whole animal. The idea that, as I continue to learn to make my own food, from scratch, I could, this year butcher a pig, half a cow (anyone want go in on some home-butchered meat?) , then a sheep this year.

I am fascinated by the idea, frankly.  For one, I can’t (emotionally) stand offal. To be honest, I secretly feel like I am dying just a bit inside when a chef trots out his famous corned beef heart, luscious tripe casserole or, horrors,  just a hunk of plain old sauteed WTF on a plate with a little parsley garnish. I have to eat it, it seems very nearly my job to do so, but I hate ever minute of it.

That said, I usually, technically, like it.  I gobbled the head cheese at Lupa, even if I dug in because I was at lunch with a French chef who I am quite sure would have ridiculed me for demurring.  And while I cringe at the thought of foie gras, I can admit, back when I was cooking professionally, to having my chef take “foie terrine” off my place list because I tended to eat too much of it when it sat on my station.

I’m a hypocrite, surely, but then again everyone is about something, usually they don’t admit it.  But I would like to admit — and conquer — my hypocrisy.

But there is more to it than that.  I do have rather intense “food issues.”  While I ignore them if I am really strung out and upset (when Hawaiian Punch and a McDonalds hamburger meal seems to soothe me in a childlike way), I usually can’t manage to eat industrial food, unless I am a guest at someone’s house.  The thought of the crap that goes into the chicken feed or and the horrendous conditions of livestock rearing in this country — seriously, it is no wonder we have so many asthmatic, diabetic and ADD-riddled kids, they are growing up eating chemical compounds that I swear are not acceptable for use in warfare by the Geneva Convention!

Maybe I exaggerate.  But I was talking to Mike Lata this week and he, too, some food issues.  He admitted to not being able to eat in airports.  It made me feel better, considering that I get near panic attacks when the captive audience of an airport food court.

And this, really, is why I am trying so hard to grow my own vegetables, raise chickens, can my own prepared food and learn how to make ingredients, like fresh butter, ketchup and worchestershire sauce, sport peppers (for my bloody mary’s), whatever. And why I am thinking that procuring and just eating one pig, one half cow (really, who wants some cow from chez Ellen?) and one sheep this coming year could be a revelation.

OK, it could also make me a vegan.  But Jimmy Choo doesn’t come in vegan yet, does it?

So, stay tuned, because Rob said, “Yes!”

P.S.: Uh, Grant? You out there? I need a wooden box made for curing a ham. Stat.