Tag Archives: Rhubarb

Skillet Dinner

If you’ve driven through more than three states in a day or so — let alone seven in five days — your arrival home is best celebrated with a skillet dinner. One pot, preferably cast iron which doesn’t even really need to be cleaned in the traditional sense, and as many herbs and other green things as one can find.

Mixed with roughage of any other sort.

It can cure the inertia a body feels after days and days of hurling thru space in a car.

After a recent trip through the south — marked by seven days of fried food, gallons of bourbon and barely a vegetable that wasn’t sweet pickled — I was sluggish enough in every sense of the word to crave a greenalicious skillet dinner.

My preferred method of skillet dinner begins with some kind of whole grain, which I pressure cook in quantity and then store in the freezer in individual servings. That way, it’s easy to dump a packet of cooked goodness into a cast iron pan slicked with butter when one needs to eat more than they need to think.

While the grains, in this case oat groats, were defrosting/sauteeing/crisping, I went to the front of the house and grabbed a stick of rhubarb and the whole of the available parsley — note to self, plant more parsley because really, no one should buy parsley between Mid-March and the first days of December. Or, in some years, later. And at the next available moment after this meal, I will have to buy parsley.

A quick snip of the available chivey selections, a few mint leaves since I always try to add in mint leaves to keep the plant from overtaking the world, and some sprigs of thyme and tarragon rounded out the haul.

The rhubarb got chunked up and added to the oats. Rhubarb is something I treat as an acid more than anything else. It definitely makes it easier to use in season than tackling a whole pie or fussing with some chunky sweet quick jam for pancakes or biscuits. Though I will admit to a now yearly batch of rhubarb pickle and a few ice cube trays of frozen, sugared pulp for sodas.

The herbs got dumped a big bowl of water on my way out the back door. Green garlic, lots of bulky leafy things like chard and arugula, and some cilantro. Unfortunately it is still not the end of the cilantro season and there is still entirely too much. At least the chervil is gone. No one should overplant chervil and cilantro while underplanting parsley. This year, I did.

Then I grabbed the eggs from the hen house. I swear the chickens missed me. Though I can describe why I know. But there was a particularly large egg awaiting, a sure sign of a double yolker — which is a sure sign of something, right?

By the time I got back inside, the skillet was ready for an egg, which I plopped into a bit of a hole I dug into the oat groats. The theory of Toad in the Hole can be applied to many different pans of food. You learn this along with other adaptations of marvelous egg theorems if you have too many chickens in your backyard.

Then I added the backyard garlic and greens and front yard ones in the Vitamix, dripping with water, and added some olive oil, salt, and pepper, I quick buzz on lowish, not too much and it was done. It is important to note that when you make a batch of this kind of green for this kind of purpose, you wanna leave lots of bits whole and chunky. You’ll appreciate the near wholeness of more than some of the greens; it makes the eating feel a little more virtuous, it seems.

By the time that was done, I returned to the skillet and grated some aged Cheddar cheese on top of the egg, covered the whole mess with another skillet that was perched on the stove and waited until the cheese melted. Off heat, top the whole mess with the herby green sludge. (Yes, it is sludge.) I had about a cup’s worth. Maybe more. More is good.

Like every skillet dinner, I ate it all out of the pan, maybe with some hot sauce. Maybe not. That depends on how jagged I feel. How bruised and battered my emotions are from the hotels and bad coffee and erratic snacks that I pretend are meals.

I didn’t add any hot sauce after this trip.

And then the dogs, overtired from days of hyper vigilance while at the kennel, joined me for a twelve-hour dead-to-the-world kind of sleep.

It can be good to be home. But I am not sure I’ll recover until I have another skillet meal and get the laundry done. And maybe sleep another night at home.

Homemade Campari

There are few things in life that haven’t been memorialized by Google. Homemade Campari seems to be one of them.

I happen to love Campari and so, like everything else, I wanted to make my own.

There is a short string here on Chowhound boards. Save the trouble clicking, no one has mastered it. The New York Times D.I.Y. Cooking Handbook has a orange wine thing that they claim is a bit of a homemade Campari.  It is OK, it is not homemade Campari. It is a homemade wine cooler, which is serviceable in its own right and makes you think Bartles & Jaymes at least started with a decent idea.

The most instructive is a Savuer post that hints at some core ingredients — alcohol, sugar syrup, distilled water, orange (likely bitter Sevilles), rhubarb, ginsing.  And there are a mysterious number of mysterious herbs. The post goes on to describe the making:

Its dry ingredients are soaked in water for two days, mixed with alcohol and more water, and steeped in huge vats for 15 days. The color of the brew at the end of this period is brown, and the taste is bitter—really bitter, as in undrinkable. The liquid is then drained off into blending tanks and the macerated dregs are pressed for more juice, like a tea bag; the soggy remains are boiled to distill more alcohol. Finally, the sweetening syrup and the coloring—from cochineal dye (a commonly used colorant made from the dried bodies of cochineal insects)—are added.

This is what I did:

Make the requisite wine cooler from the New York Times, sorta following the recipe in the best way I know, which is to get the gist and then move on.

I then took rhubarb syrup I made last Spring and heated it.  To that I added a pile of fresh grated ginsing, fresh ginger root slices, cardamom, pepper, two star anise mostly intact, some broken cinnamon stick bits and removed from the heat.  I left it to sit at room temperature two days.  Then I dumped it into the New York Times wine cooler.

It was pretty good with setzler.

But since this was the first go, I decided to do some more research and found this post.

Although the recipe indicates that you add it all into the alcohol, macerate and filter, when I first made homemade root beer, I discovered that no beverage with strange roots should ever be made by dumping it all together and then waiting to taste the results.

Homemade root beer often contains Spikenard Root, which really must be the worst flavor known to man.  Having not actually tasted angelica root, gentian or calamus root on their own, I opted to macerate each on its own and blend the result.

So, I had a few jars working:  orange peel, cinnamon, aniseed and cloves in one, with 350 ml alcohol.  Then, angelica root in 50 ml alcohol, gentian root in 100ml and calamus root in 100 ml.   I likely could have done the math to really get scientific but clearly that would have been out of character.

After 10 days, I tasted each and then decided to strain the gentian root and leave the angelica and calamus root to macerate another 10 days.  Then I filtered, dumped in the extra alcohol and red wine and I’m not letting it sit downstairs.

I tasted it, and while I am quite sure it is going to evolve over time, I think it needs more orange, possibly whole dried oranges or may a mix of orange, lemon and lime that somehow attempts to approximate the bitter Sevilles.   I also think I am going to add back in that rhubarb. So, I bought a bunch at the market, turned it into juice and put it in the freezer for whenever I get around to making my next batch.


Angelica root has some sort of ancient secret power to ward off pestilence, though I am not sure if the ancients were pestilented by the Stink Bug so if that is your pestilence, I can’t guarantee that drowning yourself in homemade campari will be a solution.

Gentian root is used in a lot of specialty cocktail condiments these days, specifically in bitters. So if you are going to get into homemade booze, it is a good purchase at a pound.  Though it will likely last you the rest of your life.

Calamus root may or may not be a psychotropic drug.  That’s all I’ve got to say about that.  Well, I guess I’d also suggest getting some now before the temperance union finds out and campaigns to ban it.