Tag Archives: peaches

10,000 hours of peaches

Pretty sure I put in a whole 10,000 hours of peach putting up this weekend. I started vinegar with the bruised fruit, used a bunch that was a tad still hard in rum. There’s smoked peaches, a bit of whole lemon  and orange and some sugar in one crockpot, cooking down to a luscious “peach honey,” and in the other, a bourbon-peach jam.  All the while, a full set of trays are drying, as they will continue for about two days or so.

I made spiced peaches, though I wished I had spiced them more.

And I made brandied peaches, only with Madeira, because it seemed interesting in an 18th Century recipe meets 18th Century booze kinda way.  And then when I had more peaches and no more Madeira, I sub’ed in Chamboard. I guess that means that along with Madeira’ed peachs, I also made Chamboardied peaches.

Then, I got a little more serious peach-blueberry-vanilla jam with some fancy pants and insanely aromatic Tonga Island vanilla that lovely Rod of Rare Tea Cellar gave me from this year’s harvest.  I promised him some vanilla ice cream with it, but I can’t seem to collect enough eggs this year, so I thought the jam might be a bait ‘n switch he’ll rock.

If not, well, Grant and I are getting more chickens. I can only hope for enough eggs in one moment to make ice cream. In the meantime, I am shoving the vanilla in some expensive vodka just in case.

And yet — I still had more peaches. A half bushel, to be precise. And I had also eaten about 4,000, to be imprecise.

At which point I started trolling for ideas. When you have fruit, are looking to can it, and need ideas, the first stop is always Christine Ferber’s Mes Confitures. In it, I found a lovely White Peach with Lemon Verbena. Since I have an overgrown herb garden, that seemed like an awesome Christmas gift jam. A paltry four jars.

Then, on what must be the loveliest food blog out there, found a Peach Jam with Caramelize Onion and Bacon, which sounds good because I tend to have a surplus of bacon hanging about. Six jars.

And still, more peaches.

At which point I had one of those serendipity moments because I found a recipe for peach-chocolate fondue in a jar, using chocolate liquor. And, lo, I just so happen to have nearly a half gallon of homemade chocolate liquor.

Which I realize is a bit off. But makes sense if you you know the background.

See, a few months back, I had a craving for brandy Alexanders, which require chocolate liquor, which is, I discovered, just cocoa powder, vodka, and time.

I had cocoa powder, a lot, actually, since it is sold in a pound tin and mostly a recipe only needs a teaspoon or something. I had vodka, since I seem to need to feel I can make lemoncello at the drop of a hat. And I always have time to wait for stuff, since there is always other stuff I have started and been waiting on.

And so I dumped it all together and tucked the brown vodka at the back of the liquor.

Until today. Today, I tasted it. It rocked.

And so I made peach-chocolate fondue with homemade chocolate liquor. It had the benefit of using up a good portion of the liquor while concocting a delicious treat for the sure to be awful winter.

It will be awesome with vanilla ice cream, if I can ever get enough eggs at one moment to make some.

Peach Shrub — or a tale of forgotten frozen peaches

A better woman than I knows what is in her chest freezer.  Me, I mostly don’t, for a variety of reasons, including but not limited to:

  • My utter inability to follow the kind of dedicated labeling a chest freezer needs
  • The fact that I am forever shoving random bits of whatever in there, because I have an idea for later  — pureed asparagus butt ends because the world needs to know what to do with the butt ends of asparagus!
  • Although I can remember astonishing things that I need to remember, I tend to have a really bad memory for anything non-essential or look-upable or, apparently, findable by rummaging through the freezer.

And so it was this Spring that I found a random bag of about 10 or so peaches in the depths of the freezer.

It being nearly strawberry season, there is no reason for me to eat a frozen peach, although they were delicious last winter when braised in a brandy-brown sugar mix and served with pig candy and vanilla ice cream.  (Thank you Mikey Sheerin for that idea.)

What I did decide to do was make a shrub. According to the Slow Food website, Shrub was a colonial drink made from fruit, sugar and vinegar.  Its sweet and tart and if you mix a bit, say, a shot glass, with seltzer water, its pretty delicious.  If you dump in a jigger of dark rum, more so.

I found a few recipes for shrub on the interweb, including this one, this one and this one.  But they all involved cooking the mix and really, it seemed like it was going to be cleaner tasting without the cooking bit.  Here’s one I found that is uncooked, which seemed more up my alley.

Ultimately, what I did was mix together the frozen peaches, 2 cups sugar and 2 cups vinegar in a big jar.  I added a handful or so of black peppercorns and some star anise and a cinnamon stick.  When the peaches were defrosted, I pierced them pretty aggressively so they would macerate through and through. I covered the top with a couple layers of paper towel. And I let it sit on the counter for about three weeks.  Then I strained it and drank it pretty well diluted with seltzer.

It’s pretty damn refreshing. And, I am convinced, a health elixir, since apple cider vinegar is supposedly a miracle cure.

Labor Day recipes

I spent most of Labor Day weekend gardening and canning, which is likely why I am so happy.  I thought I would share a few recipes from the weekend.

Hard Boiled Egg
Fresh eggs are not fun to peel after they have been hard-boiled.  In fact, if you garden a lot, and thus have super short fingernails, peeled a freshly laid hard boiled egg is nearly not worth the effort.  Ahem, until you cut open the egg to share with your mom and she gasps at the color of the yolk.  Yes, I found fresh eggs, hard boiled and laboriously peeled, are the most impressive to a newbie.  The color is, hum, I won’t get too poetic here, since I am not, but let’s just say that it is the color of the sun in that one perfect sunset in your mind.  Preferably the one on the Ligurian coast.  In summer.  After hiking the Cinque Terre. While eating fresh pesto.

Put egg in cold water, covering by one inch.
Add a small handful of salt to water. Actually the amount that fits into your fingertips if you scoop a bit.
Bring to a boil, turn off heat.
Cover for 10 minutes.  No more.

Summer Stew
My mom, who has some sort of crazy fresh corn fetish, can’t seem to eat corn that is more than 24 hours out of the ground.  Or so I always thought until she brought day-old corn to my house for lunch.  Still, she bought it at a great farm up by her house, near where I grew up, and the ears are super crazy stout and corn-y.  I am quite sure it isn’t organic or and there is some mysterious Monsanto-like thing they do to them to get them so large.  I generally don’t care because they are that good.

This is adapted from Deborah Madison, Local Flavors, because everything in that book is insanely delicious.

1 ear corn, apparently day-old is fine
small handful peas or green beans, whichever you have– green beans cut on the bias
2 handfuls of small tomatoes, cut in half — yellow teardrops, red, whatever
1 small zucchini, cut into chunks — if you can actually grab one out of the garden before it explodes in size
1 small fresh onion, diced
knob of butter
handful of whatever soft herbs you have, cut into chiffonade
fresh goat cheese

Blanch the corn briefly, remove from water and dump green beans in water if using.
Cut kernels off corn.
Remove beans from water.
Heat butter on stove and add onion.  Saute until soft.
Add zucchini, saute until soft.
Add beans and tomatoes, saute.
Add herbs and give it all a stir.
Serve, crumbling goat cheese on top at table.

Raspberry Jam
Super fast with not that much.

2 pints raspberries
6.5 cups sugar

I heat the sugar in a 250 degree oven to get it hot for a bit while I boil the jars and mash the raspberries.
Place raspberries in an oversize pan. (You really need larger than 4 quart or you risk it boiling over, which really sucks).
Add sugar and bring to a boil, stirring constantly with a heat proof spatula, scraping down sides.
As soon as it is at a rolling boil, time it for one minute, stirring constantly. Do not cook more than necessary, it alters the flavor.
Add pectin, stir another minute. Depending on how thick you like your jam, you can put it up now or boil another minute or two.
Pour into jars and seal.
Process briefly.

Stewed Plums
This is a semi-recipe adapted from one Novella Carpenter kinda outlines in City Farm. Because they are not sweetened, they are great for breakfast and as a savory accompaniment to dinner, especially pork.

Wash plums well.
Pack tightly into hot, sterilized jars.  Place lids on jars.
Heat for 1 hour.  Add more plums.
Process for 15 minutes in pressure canner.

Grape Jam
This jam can be tricky.  Don’t thicken the juice enough, and you have grape syrup rather than jelly.  Not really a bad thing since the Jupiter grapes are insanely delicious.  If you boil too much, the fresh tang of the grape is gone, though you have a more jam-like consistency. I pretty much make this for myself, since I appreciate the flavor of the generally runny jam I end up with.  I find regular folk tend to fixate on the runnyness and it ruins the whole jar for them.

6 pounds grapes, preferably Jupiter
7 1/2 cups sugar
2 packets pectin

Boil grapes and sugar together until thickened slightly, stirring frequently.
Add pectin and bring back to a boil for one minute.  Check set.

Pickled Grapes
I happen to pickle just about everything and I happened to have a bit of a glut of Jupiter grapes, even after making jam.  So, I thought that pickling them would be nice.  I just ate a whole jar.

2 pounds red grapes, Jupiter are best
2 cups white vinegar
2 cups sugar
handful of green cardamom
1/2 handful black pepper
cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon salt

Heat vinegar, sugar, cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon and salt in a saucepan.  Stir to dissolve sugar.
Boil jars.  Remove from heat and pack with clean grapes. Make sure that only one cardamom seed goes in each jar.
Place lids in hot water to soften seal.
Pour heated vinegar over top of grapes.
Seal and place in hot water.  Bring to a boil and turn off heat.  Let jars cool in water.

Pickled Peaches
Because I bought  case each of grapes, raspberries and plums over the weekend, the farmer I buy from gave me the restaurant price for each and also tossed in a nice big bag of peaches.  Yummy, only I was already flush with peaches and had two melons from the back yard that were teed up and ready to be eaten.  Because I usually buy two cases of peaches for putting up at the end of the season and I am not a big fan of peach jam, I decided to just pickle them.  It’s easy.  Super easy since I am super lazy and don’t peel them since I won’t be giving them away.

4 cups sugar
1 cup vinegar
1 cup water
1/2 handful black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick per jar
1 piece star anise per jar
4 pounds peaches, chopped up in big chunks

Bring  sugar, vinegar and water to the boil.  Stir to dissolve sugar.
Place peaches in syrup and boil 10 minutes.
Spoon peaches into jars with syrup to half inch from top.
Process 10 minutes.